There are several types of “Apple Snails” available for aquariums. P. diffusa (formerly P. bridgesii) Apple Snails are popular among natural, planted aquarium enthusiasts because they don’t eat healthy plant tissue and are good janitors. Their gorgeous shell shades of gold, pink, purple, ivory and tan make them even more appealing.
As the weather (or aquarium temperature) warms, Apple Snail egg production often increases and aquarists begin to find clutches above the water line. Clutches can be left where they’re laid to hatch into the tank. However, there’s more room for error with this method. The clutch can’t be too close to the light or it will dry out. The tank must be humid and warm, yet the clutch cannot be too wet. To improve your chances, you may wish to use one of the following methods of hatching the clutch.
First, the removal. Wait at least 24 hours before attempting to remove the clutch from where it was laid. You can gently wiggle the clutch from side to side, not really attempting to move it at first, just applying light pressure. It should loosen and pop right off. Don’t worry about if you pop an egg or two – there can be upwards of 300+ eggs in each clutch so you can spare a couple. If you prefer, you can also use a thin, flexible card.
Hatching Method 1:
One of the easiest methods is to use a ‘breeding trap‘ designed for brooding fish. Position the breeder trap so that there is ample space above the water line, very little has to be below it. Float a piece of styrofoam on top of the water. You may wish to put elastics around the styrofoam or use toothpicks to keep the clutch slightly raised – I use elastics along with a bumpy meat tray on top of the styrofoam (see below). This allows for air circulation and prevents rot from laying in too much moisture. Place the cover on the breeding trap, and keep an eye on the clutch. If it appears to be too dry, you can use your finger to lightly moisten it once per day, or mist it lightly. Warmth is also crucial, so a heated tank or one which has the light on for extended periods is advised.
Hatching Method 2:
You can use a container as a snail hatchery, or opt for a small fish tank set up to maintain high humidity levels. Use the same method of floating the clutches on styrofoam as described above, filling the container about half way. Some put small air holes in the lid, but I personally have had better results without the holes. I check the clutch once/day to let in fresh air. Place the container in a warm spot, such as on top of an aquarium light, on a warm appliance such as a refrigerator, or even on top of a computer tower.
Hatching Method 3:
Wrap the clutch loosely in a thin layer of damp paper towel. Place it in a container or bag of air and place the bag or container in a warm spot. Frequently open the bag/container for air exchange and check for signs of hatching. I get my best hatch rates using this method.
Many breeders use varying methods, but those are the basics. The same methods may be used for other aquarium snail species that lay their eggs above the waterline. Warmth and humidity are your number one concern, closely followed by ensuring that the clutch does not stay too wet.
Hatching takes an average of 2-3 weeks. You will notice the clutch growing and the shade will change. Typically they will appear white or very light on the surface as they approach hatching, and you will see dark spots beneath the surface – those dark spots are your snailbies!
Following is an example of the various developmental stages of Apple (or Mystery) Snail clutches:
The clutch on the top left is closest to hatching, closely followed by the clutch on the top right. The Clutch on the top middle is the most recently laid.
Caring for Baby Apple/Mystery Snails
When the snails begin to hatch, you can gently swish the clutch through the water to help the newborns along. I find that hatchlings do much better in a small tank/container with a bare bottom & air stone for the first month of life. It makes it easier for them to find food and move about in general. Then I move them to a grow-out tank with a bare bottom and low current until they are large enough to join the community. The environment must be kept clean and high in dissolved minerals for healthy shell development. An acidic environment will corrode shells.
We feed our growing snails primarily algae/seaweed, blanched greens, blanched zucchini, freeze-dried krill, fortified frozen shrimp, and dehydrated homemade food. Fish food preserved with ethoxyquin should be avoided.
Important Note: There can be many, many snails in one clutch. Please be sure that you are able to provide optimum growing conditions for so many snails before hatching a clutch. The snails will usually lay in spurts, leaving you clutches every few days for a number of weeks – that’s a lot of snails! If you are unable to care for them all, you may wish to dispose of the clutches by freezing them as early in the clutch development as possible, then throw them out.
To find homes for your snails, use the classifieds, approach a reputable store or offer them at your local fish club auctions. You can usually find homes for them by giving them away or for the cost of shipping, if all else fails. NEVER release snails into the wild!
??? Do you have Apple Snails in your aquarium? Please share your experience in the comments below.
✔ You may also be interested in reading:
How to Get Rid of Aquarium Algae the Natural Way
Increase or Decrease Freshwater Aquarium pH Naturally
Homemade Gelatin Food Recipe for Aquatic or Other Pets
© All Natural Pet Care Blog – Content on this website may not be used elsewhere without expressed permission. Thank you for respecting the effort that we have put into our original content.
DISCLOSURE: We may receive compensation for links to products on this website. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
DISCLAIMER: Statements on this website may not have been evaluated by the FDA, Health Canada nor any other government regulator. The information and products provided by AllNaturalPetCare.com are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, nor prevent any disease and are intended for educational purposes only. READ MORE…
COMMENTS ARE MODERATED – Legitimate comments will be published after a short delay. Spam will not be published.